My work here is to engage the community, all 17 villages, in the idea of developing the councillors’ skills, knowledge and behavior so that they work effectively at representing their community. For this to happen we need all relevant movers and shakers to join in the debate on what they want from their councilors and council, then develop a two year plan. Part of the problem is that the community do not hold them to account in any way at all. They are too busy with their daily lives. In Mr Maslow’s hierarchy, they are so stuck on the bottom of the triangle that engaging in local politics may seem irrelevant.
It takes two hours or more to get to many villages on the dirt tracks so we have set up three focus groups that will cover all 17 villages and 41 councilors.
Last week we set of for Taku, a small community in the hills, to meet with councilors, traditional chiefs, women’s groups, and charities in the area. We had a great turn out and an enthusiastic reception.
Three traditional chiefs (AKA Fons), came and asked many questions about how they would be involved. They are very powerful people in the community. They head up village committees and are well respected and connected with anyone of influence. They turn up with minders who either bring their own ‘clean’ chairs or use a duster to wipe the chair and then lay a piece of carpet on the chair to protect the Fon’s clothes. There are rituals around how they are greeted and how we behave amongst them. I always ask my minder to go first then I copy.
At the end of our meeting, the Fon of Ngarum asked for a lift in our jeep, back to Ngarum, as it was on our way. When we arrived he offered me a drink in a bar so, after chair dusting and carpet laying, me, George the driver and 2 councilors joined the Fon for drinks. After the first beer the Fon announced that as he was enjoying the conversation we would all have another drink.
The conversation lead to ‘how to greet a Fon’ and I asked why some people greeted him by clapping cupped hands together three times then raising their cupped hands to their mouth and making a grunting noise. Others just bow.
He explained that one has to be initiated into his tribe before being able to do the complicated greeting. Initiation involves giving the Fon a goat, some chickens, palm wine and a lump sum of money. Villagers all attend the ceremony and join in the drinking and dancing.
The Fon then offered to initiate me and as I was nudged heavily in the ribs by my friend and councillor, Mr. Patrick, and told this was a great honour, I accepted.
Mr. Patrick and I negotiated the fee with the Fon’s minder, in a back room at the bar. We agreed 3,000 francs cash and 3,000 francs worth of palm wine for the villagers - a total of £6.
The ceremony took place in an empty room in the village, used for the Fon to meet his people. Word got around and I was joined by some 10 villagers. Mr. Patrick lead and I copied everything he did – bowing, grunting and drinking palm wine from a hollowed out animal’s horn.
Once this was over, the Fon announced that he would like to give me a name. Apparently this really is a special honour and does not happen automatically. I was given the name Manjuh, which means great leader of women. He asked that someone buy me my Manjuh hat so that I can wear it on International Women’s Day. The Fon of Ngarum will sit on the bandstand on the day to watch us ‘march past’, and I will be able to great him in the traditional way.
I have a funny feeling that much will be expected of me on the day, but that is another tale to tell
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