Thursday 27 March 2008












So many things happen in a day and there is so much to tell. Even the trival is fascinating or infuriating here. But I haven’t told you about Women’s Day yet and it was 2 weeks ago.



I dressed in my ‘uniform’ at my Rest House at 6.30am and left or the walk to SG’s house for breakfast. Kevin waved me off and told me I looked beautiful, like a real African woman.



As it was a special day SG’s lovely wife Zenobia, had cooked goat meat stew, yams and huckleberry all washed down with Ndu tea. And remember, this had been done over a wood fire at the back of the house. She as not in her women’s day dress yet but promised to meet me later.



I then strolled off the meet Isabella, Ernestine and Caroline at the Bandstand at the heart of Ndu. We had had strict instructions from the local government officer who would be opening the day, that it would start on time, at 10am. This is almost unheard of in Cameroon and I secretly wondered if he really would start if half the people had not turned up.



Ernestine was there, looking so glamorous. She was mildly impressed with my headscarf but tactfully suggested that we re- did it inside the dressmaker’s shop. The other two tuned up 10 minutes later and we took our places in a long trail of women, gathered in clusters of groups – church choirs, farming co-operatives, work groups, campaigning groups. Each group carried a sign telling the dignitaries watching form the bandstand, who we all were. I am still not sure who the ‘Happiness Group’ are but perhaps us girls should set one up in Cardiff?



Some women wore the official uniform and others had designed their own uniforms. The fabric here is printed with anything you want on it - the president’s face, religious images and bible texts. So much choice and not enough days in the week. (Yes Mum, I will choose you one. Would you like an image of Mary or the crucifixion on your frock?)



The main event happens at th bandstand., wher dignitaries st in the shade. The mayor and his wife were there as were most of the individuals that I hav interviewed whislt in Ndu. The Fon of Ngarum sat in a sepearte box as he is so special. The female MP ‘Madame Esther’ greeted me very warmly and we all lined up for photos. The mayor wanted me to sit with him on the bandstand but the grils said I had to march with them so I did.



Each group take it in turns to march in front of the bandstand, singing a song and the best group win a prize. We sang:

Happy to be a woman in Cameroon


Council women, Ndu sub-division


With Gods blessing


We work hard to do our best



Or


Women are shaking the nation


Women are shaking the nation


Women are shaking the nation


SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE
(shouted loudly whilst shaking our arse)

Ernestine was out choir mistress and had rehearsed us, in the street, 5 minutes before we marched. We had fun but wee beaten by the Ndu Methodist Choir, a huge group of about 30 women singing thee Lords praises in 4 part harmony. No contest I think.

I was then invited to join others in the bandstand to watch the choir and dancing competitions and my 3 friends took it upon themselves to accompany me making the most of it to have a seat in the shade.



We threw money at the groups we liked best and danced with some of them and once the speeches had been made and prizes given out I was invited to the local government officials house for lunch, along with the chairwomen of local groups.



Lunch was the usual – huckleberry, yams, plantains, cow stew and rice all washed down with a large bottle of beer. The host said grace then, in the usual Cameroonian tradition he announced that men should go first for the food, followed by the women later.


Now. I had realised that Women’s Day is mostly about new clothes but, I thought, as the token stranger I could speak up. I suggested, light heartedly, that as it was International Women’s Day perhaps, just this once, the women could go first?


He roared with laughter and led the men to the buffet.


I left sometime later to go to ‘a night club’ with the girls. A night club, in Ndu? The girls explained – all bars turn into night clubs in the evening. They turn up the music and re-arrange the furniture. So simple. Such fun dancing with crowds of women in an area smaller than my kitchen.



1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Wot a party!
You look wonderful in your beautiful dress. And so healthy.
I have loved reading your stories & seeing your pics.
Enjoy your rest & a safe journey home.
looking forward to seeing you soon
Love Jeanne x