What's in my wash bag?

People here have no money. Now I know you know that. We all know that. But, it is not until you are here that ‘no money’ really has some meaning.

My council friend Caroline is in her early 30’s. She is a widow with two young children. Her husband died in a motorbike accident two years ago and she now lives with her in-laws, as is the way here. His family are now responsible for his wife and children, unless she decides to marry again.

She was in my room the other evening and was looking through my wash bag. I had some wet wipes and offered her one – I was a hot and humid night and mopping my face with one is very refreshing. But she did not know what to do with it. She had never seen one. Now I appreciate that this is not a measure of poverty and we can all live fulfilling lives without wet wipes but it was the wonder and awe of it all that really moved me. She thought that they were an amazing invention and when I explained what they are really for – babies bottoms, she though that they were even more wonderful.

But the real shock for me came when she giggled with delight at seeing that I shampoo and not only that, I had conditioner as well.

I asked her what she used to wash her hair. Did she use soaps or oils? She explained. Shampoo is very expensive and no one can afford it. It is the price of 3 –4 pints of beer. Or, in terms of wages, the minimum wage is around 25,000 francs a month and shampoo is 2,000 francs a bottle. So, a monthly wage is equal to 13 bottles of shampoo.

Caroline saves up and goes the hairdresser where her hair is washed and this is cheaper that investing in shampoo. I asked how this can be. How often does she go to the hairdresser? She goes every 8 weeks. Now, if I don’t wash my hair here, every day, it begins to resemble a brillo pad. A brillo pad that has scoured a dirty pan. The dust collects in my hair within 5 minutes of being outside.

Caroline always wears a head scarf, and this is why. She looks so very beautiful in it. And I thought that it was a fashion statement.

But process are weird here too. A pint of beer, a pint of water and a cup of tea are all the same price. So which do you think the men drink for breakfast? (another blog, another day.)